Pleated Abayas: Four New Ways to Add Movement Without Bulk

Pleats have a reputation for adding volume, which is why a lot of women skip them. The pleated abaya pieces in this latest drop change my mind. Each one puts its pleats in one specific place: at the hip, through a skirt panel or at the cuff. They add movement where it looks good and leave the rest of the shape clean. Here's where each pleat sits, and why it works.

Why placement matters more than the pleat

A pleat is folded fabric, so it always adds a little depth. Spread across a whole skirt, that depth widens the silhouette. Placed in one spot on a tailored body, it just moves. That's the trick all four of these share. The shoulders and bodice stay tailored, and the pleats only appear where movement helps.

Pleats at the hip, where pockets would sit

The Raisa Tailored Abaya with Pleated Ruffle Detail is the most tailored of the four. A wide lapel collar, a sculpted waist and a single covered button give it the line of a long blazer. Pleated ruffle panels sit at the front and back hips, right where a jacket would have its pockets. That placement makes them read as tailoring rather than frills. In navy, it's my pick for the office.

Featured Product: The Raisa Tailored Abaya with Pleated Ruffle Detail

A pleated abaya skirt that opens as you walk

The Nisa Contrast Bow Abaya with Pleated Panels hides its pleats in inset panels through the skirt. Standing still, they fold flat into the A-line. Walking, they open up and give the hem real movement. Contrast piping traces the neckline, bodice and sleeves, two bows mark the front, and pleated inner cuffs show through slits in the sleeves. The burgundy is the color I'd choose for an evening.

Featured Product: The Nisa Contrast Bow Abaya with Pleated Panels

A pleated bell cuff under a blazer lapel

The Tasnim Tailored Lapel Abaya with Bow Details keeps the body sharp and saves the softness for the sleeves. A notched lapel collar and shaped seams define the top half, and three tonal bows run down the front. The sleeves end in pleated bell cuffs, each finished with a smaller bow. It's the contrast I like: structured where people look first, soft where your hands move.

Featured Product: The Tasnim Tailored Lapel Abaya with Bow Details

Pleated cuffs in a contrast tone

The Salama Side Bow Detail Abaya with Pleated Cuffs is the easiest of the four to wear every day. The bodice is tailored and the round neckline stays simple. A row of tonal bows follows an asymmetric front panel. The pleats are at the cuffs only, in a contrast tone that catches the eye without adding any bulk. In green, it works from a school run to a lunch.

Featured Product: The Salama Side Bow Detail Abaya with Pleated Cuffs

Which pleat suits your week

For the office, go for the Raisa or the Tasnim, since both keep the pleats away from the body. For an occasion, the Nisa gives you the most movement. For every day, the Salama is the lightest touch. All four come in six colors with a matching sheila, so choose the pleat first and the shade second.

Related reading

• The Draped Pieces I'm Watching in This Week's New In
• Ruffle Trim Abayas: The Soft Detail Everyone's Wearing
• How to Define Your Waist in an Abaya Without a Belt

Pleats don't have to mean volume. Put in the right place, they give a tailored abaya the movement it's missing. For more pieces built for long working days, browse the Workwear Collection.